Tips for Visiting Arbat Street

Some visitors to Moscow complain about the touristy nature of Arbat Street. Buskers and beggars take advantage of its popularity, and street vendors take advantage of deep pockets. Pickpockets may be hiding out on Arbat Street, so keep your personal possessions close. Arbat Street, despite its popularity and the way it attracts those who prey on tourists, is still a Moscow must-see sight. If you’ve never been to Arbat Street, take time to see it at least once. Over the centuries, it has worked its way into the Russian cultural psyche, which means you’ll find it referenced by Russian artists, musicians, and writers.

How to Get to the Arbat in Moscow

The easiest and fastest way to start a walking tour along Moscow is by metro. The Old Arbat lies between two metro stations. “Arbatskaya” metro station is in the beginning of the street and “Smolenskaya” metro station is in its end. In case if you plan to combine a walk along the Arbat with a visit to the Red Square it would be wiser to see the street from its end to the beginning that is from “Smolenskaya” metro station to “Arbatskaya” one. It is easy to walk three quarters along Vozdvizhenka Street from “Arbatskaya” metro station and you will find yourself in Alexander Garden by the walls of the Moscow Kremlin.

Historical street of Moscow

The Old Arbat street is in our Top 10 list on a Moscow city tour.

It is a truly mysterious place. It’s rich in history but it’s also modern and vibrant.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=1AgUuD2U8w4

With its countless cafes and gift shops huddling closely side by side, Arbat street always full of street artists musicians, and young people getting together in a flash mob or just having fun.
On its side-streets, plenty of lovely old churches are hidden waiting for a curious traveler to discover them.

Old Arbat street. Photo by Yury Degtyarev

Let`s see what secrets good Old Arbat keeps:

• Arbat is one of the oldest streets in Moscow. It was laid in 1493.
• The word “Arbat” derives from the Arabic word “arbad”, which means “suburb”.
• The street was almost completely destroyed during Napoleon’s occupation of Moscow in 1812 and had to be rebuilt.
• It was the street where the most famous noble families used to live. By the way, Russian famous poet Alexander Pushkin rented a flat here and lived with his wife Natalie.
• In the beginning of the 20th century Arbat became a busy shopping street.
• After the October revolution of 1917, Bolsheviks confiscated private apartments from their owners and nationalized them.
• In the early 1980s Arbat, which had been a busy street in terms of traffic, was closed off and made into the first pedestrian zone of the Soviet Union.
• After the crash of USSR, the street was a gathering place for informal youth movements like hippies or punks.
• The world famous Hard Rock Café is located in this street.
• Arbat ends at Smolenskaya-Sennaya Square which is dominated by the imposing Ministry of Foreign Affairs, one of Moscow’s seven skyscrapers built in mid-20th century and known as the Seven Sisters.
• There is also the New Arbat Street, a long avenue constructed in the late 1950s.
• Arbar and Red Square are most popular walking areas for locals and tourists. However, on our Red Square tour we are always at a loss when it comes to lunch, as there are almost no decent, but affordable places to eat.  Whereas Arbat is all about good food experience.

Old Arbat. Photo by Elena Belukova

Old Arbat street. Photo by foto.rg.ru

Как добраться до улицы Арбат

История

Sights

While Arbat street’s significance lies in its history, Arbat Street today is a lively and interesting Moscow attraction. The Pushkin House-Museum, identifiable by a statue of the poet, can be visited—as the Father of Russian Literature, Pushkin deserves to be paid homage to at the sight of one of his former residences. One of Stalin’s Seven Sisters, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs is on Smolenskaya-Sennaya Square. Other attractions include a monument to the songwriter Bula Okudzhava; the Melnikov House, built by constructivist architect Konstantin Melnikov; the Wall of Peace; and the Spaso House; and the Church of the Saviour in Peski.

invizbk / Getty Images

Особняки Попова-Морозова, Листа, Берга

Выйдя на Смоленскую-Сенную площадь (в XIX веке здесь располагался Сенной рынок), повернем налево вдоль фасада высотного здания Министерства иностранных дел и направимся в сторону Смоленского бульвара

На углу Глазовского переулка привлекает внимание классицистический особняк Попова (№26/9)

Построенный в конце XVIII века для генеральши Глазовой, в 1874 году он был куплен известным чаеторговцем К. С. Поповым и перестроен, при этом отделка помещений была выполнена по египетским, античным, восточным мотивам.

В конце XIX века особняк приобрел представитель знаменитейшей купеческой фамилии, меценат М. А. Морозов. Гостями этого дома были крупнейшие русские художники рубежа веков — М. А. Врубель, К. А. Коровин, И. И. Левитан, В. А. Серов.

Морозов собрал блестящую коллекцию импрессионистов, размещавшуюся в зимнем саду и во многих комнатах особняка. После смерти хозяина его вдова передала картины в дар Третьяковской галерее.

В Глазовском переулке мы увидим изящный особняк Листа (№8), построенный Л. Н. Кекушевым для О. Листа. Еще один особняк эпохи модерна (№4/16) расположен на углу Денежного переулка (когда-то здесь существовала слобода мастеров государева Монетного двора).

Напротив (№9/6) — типичная деревянная ампирная усадьба, построенная вскоре после пожара 1812 года для поручика А. К. Поливанова. Повседневная жизнь хозяев такого дома протекала в мезонине или на антресолях — полуэтаже с низкими потолками; в просторных «передних» комнатах принимали гостей.

Неоренессансный особняк Берга (№5) после заключения Брестского мира был предоставлен для размещения германской дипломатической миссии. Именно в этом здании 6 июля 1918 года сотрудник ЧК эсер Я. Г. Блюмкин убил германского посла В. фон Мирбаха, что стало сигналом к началу левоэсеровского мятежа. Ныне здание занимает посольство Италии.

Название переулка Сивцев Вражек произошло от оврага («вражка»), по дну которого текла небольшая река Сивец, впадавшая в текший вдоль стены Белого города ручей Черторый. В ампирном особняке с мезонином (№27), где в 1843–1846 годах жил А. И. Герцен, ныне помещается музей писателя.

Схожий дом описан в романе Ильфа и Петрова «Двенадцать стульев» как «Общежитие имени Бертольда Шварца». Небольшой дом №34 примечателен тем, что живший здесь в 1850 году Л. Н. Толстой упомянул его в романе «Война и мир».

Walking Tour along the Arbat

The Arbat has incorporated all the flair of the USSR, the reformation period and the modern Russia. The Old Arbat is one of the few places in Russia where one can feel the special atmosphere of junk markets that used to be popular in the 90-s alongside with that of the merchants buildings of the 19th century and modern shops and restaurants. It is in the Arbat where a foreigner can buy anything that is in his or her opinion is the symbol of Russia. So the Arbat offers winter fur caps, matryoshkas (Russian nesting dolls), flags, and amber, jeweled eggs of Faberge, souvenirs with the Kremlin, the Moskva (Moscow) River, and Saint Basil’s Cathedral and so on and so forth.

Apart from all of these things the Arbat can at the same time show its absolutely different nature, but this is for those who want to appreciate the gist of things. People wrote and sang a lot about the Arbat. This is the street where many famous people lived and many great writers walked. Mikhail Bulgakov for example liked to walk along the Arbat. He even used that street as the scenery in his novel “The Master and Margarita”.

There is the famous restaurant Prague in the very beginning of the street. This is the place where the so beloved by all Russians cake called “Ptichye Moloko” (pigeon milk) was invented. In fact “Ptichye Moloko” was the first culinary product to obtain a patent in the USSR. There is a confectionary on the ground floor of the restaurant today. Everyone can taste the legendary cake there.

One can never leave the Old Arbat being hungry. Here is a wide range of snack bars, cafes, fast food restaurants, canteens, bars and traditional restaurants. Such a competition makes them constantly improve the quality of food and service. They also use bright facades to attract tourists.

Still the main and most famous attraction of the Arbat is the street artists. They give the street the long forgotten flair of the 90-s, the flair of freedom and Coke.

The Arbat has received a new better look within the last years. Apart from being the most famous street in the country it also received a proper decoration. Besides it is now possible not only to walk along it, but also to sit and rest.

Best Restaurants on Arbat:

1. Prague Restaurant  on Arbat dates back to the XIX century, it has retained many ancient traditions and has become a legend. Beloved by many for its distinguished atmosphere, impeccable service and delicious dishes.

   Pragues offers ten halls with various cuisines, atmosphere and styles, including a nightclub and a bakery.

2. Tajj Mahal is a restaurant with a luxurious interior in the Empire style. Here you will be able to taste delicious dishes from different cuisines – European classics are in harmony with the Arab and Indian dishes and is complemented by Japanese and Uzbek cuisines.

   The elegance of the interior is expressed in the Indian and Islamic architectural elements. Airy sofas and lush pillows, colorful rugs and delicate lighting fixtures  are all thought over to the smallest detail (which, incidentally, were imported from Eastern countries), so you can feel a completely different world, a world of lightness , mystery, romance and wealth of the East. Pleasant background music in the air creates a relaxed, laid-back vibe, combined with flavors of Eastern spices that de-stress and release your tension.

3. The menu of Pochtmeister Restaurant features more than 10 varieties of beer from the best Russian and international manufacturers. Beer is served with snacks, hot meat and fish dishes, casseroles and salads. Interior is rustic and is ideal for those who want to feel local traditions: wooden furniture, warm colors and atmospheric lighting, a lot of pictures on the walls, brickwork and lights.

Monument after Alexander Pushkin and his wife. Photo by Dmitry Devin

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Arbat Street’s Evolution

During the 1700s, Arbat Street began to be looked upon by Moscow’s noble and wealthy community as a prime residential district, and it eventually began to be settled by some of Russia’s most famous families and notable individuals. The famous Russian poet, Alexander Pushkin, lived on Arbat Street with his wife, and visitors can stop at a museum that preserves the house in his honor. Other famous Russian families, like the Tolstoys and the Sheremetevs, also had houses on Arbat Street. Fires damaged many of the oldest Arbat Street houses, so today its architecture is a mixture from different styles, including Art Nouveau.

It wasn’t until the 19th century that Arbat Street gained a central location in Moscow because the city’s prior development had meant that the street was on the outskirts until this time. Taking a stroll down this street, it is possible to imagine how Moscow might have felt during Pushkin’s or Tolstoy’s time, though now it is a highly touristed area that is congested with sightseers, buskers, and street vendors. Additionally, it was only in the 1980s that Arbat Street was closed to motor vehicle traffic and made a pedestrian street, so even Pushkin would have had to have dodged carriages and carts while taking a stroll outside his residence.

Pushkin Museum in the Arbat in Moscow

We came to the house of the great Russian poet Alexander Pushkin by the end of our excursion along the Old Arbat, since it is situated at the very end of the street. It is hard to miss the house – there is a memorial tablet on it. Besides there is a memorial to the poet and his wife Natalia Goncharova right in front of the house. The memorial shows the couple with a reason since this the house where the newlyweds spend the first few months after the wedding. Right until the poet broke up with his mother-in-law who interfered into their affairs. After that the couple left for Saint-Petersburg.

The building behind the Pushkin house is one of the Stalin’s high-rises. It is the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Russian Federation.

The house itself is of two floors. The museum displays things that belonged to the poet and his close relations alongside with some copies, drafts and letters. It is always interesting to visit a place where a famous person lived and the memory of whom will live forever. Although he it did not spend too much time here.

The Arbat attracts hundreds of visitors every day. The street is so famous that it is included into top-5 must-sees for both Russian and foreign tourists. This street is only deserted in early morning at about 8 a.m. when all the citizens wake up and hurry to work. This is the time when the Arbat is not a pedestrian street yet, but an ordinary rout from somebody’s home to somebody’s work. But the street turns into the residence of street art, souvenir shops and restaurants at the midday.

Необычные экскурсии, прогулки по Старому Арбату: маршрут, цены

The Arbat and its Attractions

There is no exaggeration in saying that each building in the Arbat bears the impress of history or its owners. This is the hotel by A. Echkin that exists since 1904.

The next building is the house of Association of Russian Doctors. The hero of the war with Napoleon in 1812 Denis Davydov used to live here for some time.

Our walking rout passes by the most famous building in the Old Arbat. This is the so called “house with knights”. It was built in 1914 and in those times it looked like a real sky-scraper and offered apartments for the richest residents.

There is a memorial-fountain to Princess Turandot right in front of the “house with knights”. This memorial decorates the entrance to the Eugenie Vahktangov State Academic Theatre.

This is when we came to the most controversial attraction in the Arbat. This is Viktor Tsoi memorial wall. Tsoi was the legendary rock-star and his fans and admirers turned and ordinary garage wall into a memorial. The signs on the wall keep on changing, but the meaning is eternal: “Tsoi lives!” This legendary phrase, which carries so much meaning, as well as the famous “Elvis has left the building!”

There is a memorial to Bulat Okudzhava on the cross of the Arbat and Plotnikov Lane. He was a great soviet poet. Bulat Okudzhava was born in Moscow and devoted a lot of his songs to Moscow and the Arbat in particular.

Храм святителей Афанасия и Кирилла

Филипповский переулок в XVI веке был главной улицей слободы иконописцев. Здесь же находился двор митрополита Филиппа, убитого за критику жестокостей правления Ивана Грозного и впоследствии канонизированного.

В переулок выходит алтарная часть классицистического храма святителей Афанасия и Кирилла на Сивцевом Вражке (№3/16). Одноглавый Филипповский храм (№20) с низкой шатровой колокольней был построен стольником И. Косминым в 1688 году на месте церкви, сооруженной по инициативе митрополита Филиппа в честь его святого покровителя.

В 1818 году сильно пострадавшая во время нашествия Наполеона церковь была отдана для устройства подворья Иерусалимского патриархата. Главный престол был переосвящен во имя Воскресения Словущего, Филипповский же перенесли на место упраздненного Никольского придела.

Развлечения на Арбате

Кривоарбатский переулок

Выйдя на Арбат, вернемся немного назад и свернем в Кривоарбатский переулок. Глухая стена углового дома, покрытая граффити — «стена Цоя», возле которой собираются поклонники погибшего рок-музыканта.

Дом военного суда (№2) — одна из сохранившихся городских усадеб конца XVIII–начала XIX веков. Доходный дом Борисова (№3) сочетает в себе стилистику псевдорусского стиля с элементами модерна и неоклассицизма.

Более характерный образчик застройки арбатских переулков начала ХХ века — облицованный разноцветной керамической плиткой дом Желябуржского (№9).

Собственный дом архитектора К. С. Мельникова, построенный им в конце 1920‑х годов, является памятником мирового значения. Он состоит из двух проникающих друг в друга цилиндрических объемов и обходится совершенно без прямых углов как снаружи, так и внутри.

Передняя часть первого цилиндра срезана стеклянным витражом, на стену заднего цилиндра накинута сетка из 38 шестиугольных ромбовидных окон.

«Дам премию тому, кто сумеет сосчитать, сколько в доме этажей», — говорил К. С. Мельников о своем жилище. Поразительна и внутренняя планировка дома. В настоящее время посещение дома Мельникова возможно только в составе организованных групп с экскурсоводом по предварительной записи.

Антикафе на Арбате

Филевская линия Московского метрополитена

Для многих москвичей эта линия метро является любимой. Это одна из самых необычных веток. Одна ее часть петляет по старому руслу речки, после чего появляется в благоустроенных районах западной части столицы, другая приводит в царство хайтека.

Сегодня продолжается самая масштабная в истории линии реконструкция ее наземной части. На станциях, которые были сооружены по строительным стандартам середины XX столетия, меняются несущие конструкции, прослужившие 60 лет. Полностью перестраиваются и расширяются вестибюли и платформы. Таким образом, Филевская линия приобретает современный облик и еще многие годы прослужит москвичам.